The Tsushima Family and the Construction of Shayokan
Shayokan was built by Gen’emon Tsushima, the father of Osamu Dazai. During the Meiji period, Gen’emon became highly successful through finance and commerce and eventually became one of the most prominent landowners in the Tsugaru region.
He was also active in politics. He served as a member of the Aomori Prefectural Assembly, later became a member of the House of Representatives, and eventually served in the House of Peers. He also established the Kanagi Bank and became its president, giving him considerable influence in both the political and economic life of the region.
The construction of the residence reportedly cost approximately 40,000 yen at the time, an enormous sum said to have been equivalent to around 7,000 sacks of rice.
The building was designed by Sakichi Horie, a renowned master carpenter of the modern period. Construction was overseen by Isaburo Saito, Horie’s fourth son, who served as the chief carpenter.
The property covered approximately 680 tsubo, a traditional Japanese unit of land measurement equivalent to roughly 2,250 square meters. The extensive estate included the main residence, storehouses, a rice storehouse, gardens, and distinctive red-brick walls.
Osamu Dazai’s Birthplace and Childhood
Osamu Dazai, whose real name was Shuji Tsushima, was born in this house in 1909.
He was the tenth of eleven children and the sixth son of the Tsushima family. Dazai spent his childhood here until the age of 13. Growing up in such a large and prosperous household gave him firsthand experience of the social world of wealthy landowners in the Tsugaru region.
The expansive residence, storehouses, gardens, and traditional interiors that surrounded him during childhood later became part of the background to his literary imagination. Visiting Shayokan therefore provides a physical connection to the environment in which one of Japan’s most distinctive literary voices grew up.
From Family Residence to “Shayokan”
The history of Shayokan changed dramatically after World War II. Japan’s postwar agricultural land reforms resulted in the loss of much of the Tsushima family’s land, and the family was eventually forced to give up the residence.
In 1948, the property was transferred to another owner. Two years later, in 1950, the building reopened as an inn called “Shayokan.”
The name “Shayokan” was inspired by Dazai’s famous novel The Setting Sun, as well as a poetic inscription bearing the words “Shayō” that was found on a sliding door inside the building.
During its years as an inn, Shayokan became particularly popular among Dazai’s readers because it offered the unusual opportunity to stay overnight in the writer’s former family home. Literary enthusiasts came from many places to experience the atmosphere of the building and see materials connected with Dazai.
As the number of guests declined from the late 1980s onward, however, the inn faced financial difficulties. The former Kanagi Town eventually purchased the property and undertook restoration work.
In 1998, the building reopened as the Dazai Osamu Memorial Museum “Shayokan”, beginning a new chapter as a cultural and literary museum.
Discover Dazai Osamu Through His Personal Belongings
The museum houses a collection of materials related to Dazai’s life and literary career. Visitors can see items such as his cloak, writing equipment, handwritten manuscripts, and letters.
The collection also includes first editions of his works and books that have been translated into foreign languages. These materials help visitors understand how Dazai’s literature developed and how his works came to reach readers beyond Japan.
For readers familiar with Dazai, seeing the objects he actually used provides a more personal connection to the author. For those encountering his work for the first time, the exhibits offer an introduction to one of the most important writers of modern Japanese literature.
The Architectural Beauty of Shayokan
The building itself is one of the museum’s greatest attractions. The two-story wooden residence was constructed using abundant Aomori hiba cypress, a high-quality local timber known for its durability and distinctive aroma.
The exterior follows a traditional Japanese style, including an irimoya-zukuri hip-and-gable roof. However, the interior incorporates Western-style elements, creating a fascinating Japanese-Western architectural fusion.
Some areas of the residence were designed to serve functions associated with modern commerce and social life at the time, including a bank office and reception rooms. The ceiling also incorporates a truss structure, reflecting the architectural techniques being introduced and developed during Japan’s modernization.
As a result, Shayokan is valuable not only because it was Dazai’s birthplace but also because it illustrates the architectural and social changes taking place in Japan during the Meiji period.
An Important Cultural Property of Japan
The main residence, storehouses, red-brick walls, and garden have been carefully preserved, allowing visitors to appreciate the scale and character of a wealthy landowner’s estate in the Tsugaru region.
In 2004, the entire complex was designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Its significance comes from both its connection with Dazai and its architectural and historical value.
The property provides an especially valuable glimpse into the lives of wealthy rural families during a period when Japan was undergoing rapid modernization. Traditional Japanese construction techniques coexist with newer Western influences, making the residence an important example of modern Japanese architecture.
Stories and Cultural Connections
Shayokan also has a connection with Japanese popular culture. After reopening as an inn in 1950, it became a destination for admirers of Dazai and attracted increasing attention as a place associated with the famous writer.
In 1967, the building was used as a filming location for the movie Shayō no Omokage, starring actress Sayuri Yoshinaga. Many scenes were filmed inside the historic residence, further increasing public awareness of the building.
The subsequent decline of the inn and its eventual transformation into a museum demonstrate how historic buildings can take on new roles while preserving connections to their past.
A Place to Understand Both Dazai and His Era
One of the most rewarding aspects of visiting Shayokan is that it allows visitors to see Dazai’s life within a broader historical context.
The residence tells the story of a powerful local family, the development of modern Japan, the changing fortunes of wealthy landowners, and the transformation of Japanese society after World War II. At the same time, the exhibits provide an intimate look at the writer who was born and raised here.
Walking through the spacious rooms, viewing the traditional architecture, and imagining Dazai’s childhood in this environment can make his literary world feel much more tangible.
Access to Shayokan
Shayokan is conveniently located approximately 7 minutes on foot from Kanagi Station on the Tsugaru Railway Line.
It is also immediately accessible from the Shayokan-mae bus stop served by the Konan Bus Kodomari Line. Its location makes it a convenient stop for travelers exploring the Tsugaru area of Aomori Prefecture.
A Must-Visit Destination for Literature and History Lovers
Dazai Osamu Memorial Museum “Shayokan” is much more than a museum about a famous author. It is a rare place where literature, architecture, family history, regional culture, and modern Japanese history come together.
Literature enthusiasts can explore Dazai’s personal belongings and manuscripts, while architecture lovers can admire the impressive traditional wooden residence and its Japanese-Western design. Travelers interested in history can also learn about the rise and decline of the Tsushima family and the dramatic social changes that transformed Japan in the 20th century.
For anyone traveling through Aomori Prefecture, a visit to Shayokan provides a deeper understanding of Osamu Dazai, the Tsugaru region, and the historical world that shaped one of Japan’s most famous modern writers.