History and Cultural Background
The history of the Tanabu Festival dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868). The travel writer Sugawara no Masumi recorded the festival in his 1793 travel diary, Maki no Asatsuyu, indicating that it was already being held in a form similar to the present-day festival at that time.
Tanabu was once home to an administrative office of the Nambu Domain and developed as an important center of industry, commerce, and culture on the Shimokita Peninsula.
Tanabu as a Regional Trading Center
Although Tanabu itself did not directly face the sea, goods transported by the Kitamaebune—traditional merchant ships that traveled along the Sea of Japan coast—could be brought inland from Mutsu Bay via the Tanabu River. This helped the town develop into an important distribution center.
Hiba cypress and seafood from Shimokita were shipped toward the Kyoto and Osaka area, while goods, ideas, and cultural influences from various parts of Japan flowed back into the region. Among these influences were elements of the Kyoto Gion Festival, including its musical traditions and float styles.
Over time, these influences were adapted to the local culture of Shimokita, giving rise to a festival known for its refined appearance and sometimes described as “Northern Elegance.”
The Magnificent Yama Floats
The heart of the Tanabu Festival is the five traditional floats passed down through the five Tanabu neighborhoods: Yokomukaicho, Ogawamachi, Yanagimachi, Honcho, and Shinmachi. These floats are known locally as Yama.
Each Yama is constructed from wood and features a distinctive two-story, black-lacquered structure. The musicians, known as Noriko, sit on the lower level and perform the festival music, while the upper level houses a sacred figure representing the deity associated with each neighborhood.
Daytime Decorations
During the day, the Yama are decorated with magnificent embroidered curtains sourced from Kyoto, together with elaborate furnishings incorporating artistic and technical influences from China and Central Asia.
The luxurious decorations reflect the historical role of Tanabu as a trading center, where goods and cultural influences from distant regions reached the northern part of Japan.
Nighttime Decorations and “Gaku” Lantern Paintings
At night, the appearance of the floats changes dramatically. Painted lantern panels known as “Gaku”, created by local artists, are attached to the Yama. When illuminated after sunset, the paintings transform the floats into glowing works of art.
This contrast between the elegant daytime decorations and the illuminated nighttime designs is one of the most fascinating features of the Tanabu Festival.
The Five Yama and Their Sacred Figures
Each of the five floats has its own name, neighborhood organization, and sacred figure.
- First Yama – Inariyama (Yokomukaicho Gokogumi): The sacred figures are Inari, the Japanese deity associated with rice, agriculture, and prosperity, and a white fox.
- Second Yama – Shojo-yama (Ogawamachi Giyugumi): The sacred figure is Shojo, a mythical figure associated with traditional Japanese folklore.
- Third Yama – Daikokuyama (Yanagimachi Kyoshinkumi): The sacred figure is Daikokuten, a deity traditionally associated with prosperity and good fortune.
- Fourth Yama – Ebisu-yama (Honcho and Tanabu-cho Meiseigumi): The sacred figure is Ebisu, a traditional Japanese deity associated with good fortune and fishing.
- Final Yama – Koromogamine (Shinmachi Shinseigumi): The sacred figure is Sei Shonagon, the famous Heian-period writer and author associated with The Pillow Book.
Each float has its own decorative rear curtain and other ornamental elements. These differences give every Yama a distinct personality and reflect the history and character of the neighborhood responsible for it.
Traditional Music and Festival Chants
The music of the Tanabu Festival is performed with a combination of transverse flutes, small hand drums, hand cymbals, large drums, and small drums. Different styles of music are played depending on the time of day.
Daytime Gion Music
During the day, the floats are accompanied by Gion-style festival music. Its restrained and somewhat melancholic melodies evoke the elegant atmosphere of traditional Kyoto festivals.
Nighttime “Yamayare”
At night, the music changes to “Yamayare,” a lively and powerful style that gives the procession a completely different atmosphere. The energetic rhythms bring the streets to life as the illuminated Yama move through the town.
The chants used when turning the floats at intersections also vary from neighborhood to neighborhood. Distinctive calls such as “Todoko-to-no” and “Yadekorase-no” echo through the streets. After dark, the repeated call of “Yamayare, Yamayare” further intensifies the excitement.
Tanabu Festival Schedule
The Tanabu Festival takes place over three days, from August 18 to 20. Each day has its own ceremonies and highlights.
August 18
The festival begins with ceremonies and traditional performances including Daikagura, the arrival of the festival floats at the shrine, and a Noh-style dance offering. In the evening, the Oshimako nagashi-odori, a flowing traditional dance procession, marks the opening of the festivities.
August 19
The second day includes the Shokon Festival and pre-festival events. A lively mikoshi festival is also held in the evening. A mikoshi is a portable shrine that is ceremonially carried through the streets during Japanese festivals.
August 20
The final day features the ceremonial procession of the mikoshi and an evening procession of illuminated Yama floats.
Late at night, all five floats gather for the festival’s dramatic finale, known as “Gosha-wakare,” or the farewell of the five floats. The participants share barrel sake and pledge to meet again the following year. This moving gathering is regarded as the great climax of the Tanabu Festival.
The Appeal of the Tanabu Festival
The Tanabu Festival brings together two seemingly different qualities: the elegance and formality of an old Japanese festival tradition and the passionate energy of the local community.
The influence of Kyoto’s Gion Festival can be seen in the refined decorations, music, and festival floats, while the people of Shimokita have developed their own distinctive style over centuries. The result is a festival with a strong local identity and an atmosphere that cannot easily be experienced in a major urban center.
For visitors, the contrast between the ornate daytime Yama and the glowing nighttime floats is particularly memorable. The sound of drums and flutes, traditional chants, and the movement of the floats through the streets create an immersive experience that allows travelers to encounter a living part of northern Japan’s cultural heritage.
A Celebration of Shimokita’s Cultural Heritage
With more than 370 years of history, the Tanabu Festival is deeply connected to the history of Mutsu and the Shimokita Peninsula. Its traditions reflect centuries of cultural exchange, from the maritime trade of the Kitamaebune to the influence of Kyoto’s Gion Festival.
Today, the five Yama remain the central symbols of the festival, while each neighborhood continues to preserve its own decorations, music, chants, and customs.
The Tanabu Festival is more than a spectacular summer event. It is a celebration of local history, traditional arts, community identity, and cultural continuity. Held during the short northern Japanese summer, it offers visitors a chance to experience the unique atmosphere of Shimokita through light, music, elaborate craftsmanship, and centuries-old festival traditions.